If you want something that is full of flavour and is adaptable to make for a starter, light lunch or main course then go here: Smoked Salmon Tart - Delia Online

Delia is reliable as ever with this recipe although I'd add just one thing; you can get cheap packs of salmon trimmings from most supermarkets but I'd recommend treating yourself or guests and buying a superior supply of fish - the added flavour and texture is worth the extra expense.

You can see a batch here that I baked at the end of summer. Mostly individual tartlets with one larger tin for picnics or lunch at home. The 9 and a half inch was left in the drawer on this day. If you don't have smaller tins then just bake the large one for slicing in generous or dainty portions depending on need. The case certainly does shrink while cooking so chilling the pastry is essential to limit that.

You need to know the particular vagaries of your oven and how accurate the temperatures are. The main thing is to stop cooking the filling as soon as there's a nice 'spring' to the surface. Taken any further you'll have firm and chewy instead of soft and forgiving.

The scalloped edge versions were used as a starter. My only addition was a dob of mustard mayonnaise and a sprig of accidental dill which grew next to our garden tomatoes this year. Finely grated horseradish, softened with a teaspoon of hot water is another good partner for the mayo.

The fats in the pastry mix and the egg wash before baking make for a great crisp texture which is not threatened by the filling. I let the tarts cool slightly before serving. They freeze well but, if you've done that, just letting them return to room temperature is preferable to re-heating.

There's no real salmon season so this is an all year round treat. I'll certainly be making some for Christmas - maybe in mini muffin tins for a delicious canape mouthful!