Interesting, eh? I’m not much versed in the science of graphology but it seems to have a little more validity than the hokum of, say, astrology. Mind you, those five rather bleak judgements are blown out of the water by the nature of Sat Bains’ capitalisation. His is no rigid, four-square delivery. He flashes an idiosyncratic calligraphy across a page with flourishes, connections and ascenders and descenders which I imagine would confound any handwriting expert. Here is someone who veered away from visual art as a career but who insists on doing the hugely important job of recording food ideas through the medium of his own, inventive and eye-catching art form. I am fine with this. I like a clever bugger.
Those food ideas are revealed in their fully developed state in the recipes. Oh, yes. We are entering the main course I promised. The food. These pages take you through dishes which all fit into the progression of a tasting menu at the restaurant. So ‘main courses’ are small to fit comfortably into chef’s delivery of a huge flavour-driven spread.
SALT - SWEET - SOUR - BITTER - UMAMI
Five taste profiles are described for each dish. ‘Umami’ was recognised back in 1908 but has probably only been in anything like common usage for a couple of decades. The word ‘bitter’ pushes us towards ideas of unpleasantness but it is good to see it have its rightful inclusion. It has been given centre stage by provocative chef/writer Jennifer McLagan in this book.
Jean Anthelme Brillat- Savarin thought the number of tastes is infinite, because each one is unique. Sat Bains spares us that confusion. He offers no detailed scientific analysis of the way tastes ‘work’ together. For that, go to something like Nik Sharma’s ‘The Flavor Equation’. But chef’s decisions about the final balance of a dish rest on decades of experience, investigation and development. All of which jump from the page as convincing and reassuring - and as more immediately accessible than many other high-end cookbooks.
Be prepared for compromise. Unless you have enough equipment and experience in the kitchen you will struggle to do justice to many of the dishes. Hours - months - of rigorous groundwork has all been done for the reader but I know there are details of finish, texture and temperature which will inevitably escape me as I try to recreate some dishes. None of which will deter me. There is compelling inspiration here and it would only be respectful to go some way to trying to reproduce it at home.
Professional chefs will have eagerly gobbled up this book. Most of us cooking at home will have to invest in one more thing - a wholesale review of the way we offer our food. Inviting keen family or friends to help with preparation for a couple of days might not be a bad idea. Form your own brigade. If you go solo, completion of any one of the dishes would be a worthwhile challenge to add to your skill set and understanding. Unless you are inviting a full house be prepared to adjust quantities. This is one of very few cookbooks where each recipe will serve ten.
For the real thing we must be grateful that Covid rule relaxations have opened up bookings at the Nottingham restaurant. Be persistent. Many are already ahead of us in the queue!
I’ve reviewed what is now a relatively old book. It was given a multitude of awards on publication. Coming to it late, I still find it fresh and exciting. It would be a lie to say that it will find a permanent place beside my stoves. But only because it is far too classy to be subjected to close contact with the splash and splutter of the kitchen. Notes will be taken. Recipes will be photographed or digitised. Seasonality is highlighted throughout so that will be given a firm nod.
I’ll agonise a little before deciding what to challenge myself with first. Chef gives clear instructions for complex dishes but refuses to prescribe presentation. You and I are delightfully on our own with that. I’ve already bookmarked a comparatively simple savoury ice cream sandwich. Watch out for reports on my efforts.
The overwhelming first hit of ‘Too Many Chiefs…’ is its style. Ultimately, rather like Sat Bains, this ‘One Indian’ impresses with its huge substance. You should know that, while not dismissing the Michelin Guide, I set small store by their judgements. They do allow for one subjective but interesting criteria - the personality of a chef on his plates. This chef has stamped his personality on every page of his book.
Sat Bains recently posted evidence that he’s not a Covid denier or an anti-vaxxer. So, a couple more redeeming features to add to the complexities of forming a balanced view of one of our most compelling, multi-faceted chefs. Whatever he might do with ham and peas, he appears to be a fairly good egg.