Pensons
Lunch for two
October 14 2021
From greetings to goodbyes this proved to be a concentration of all that hospitality does best. Truly accomplished food prepared and presented by truly accomplished people instigated at least one daft question - what on earth had we done to deserve such a treat!
The lunch menu will not offer you confusion. It is confidently pared down to two choices each for starter, main and dessert. Dinner will offer five of the same courses; but see the website Menu page to understand how Head Chef Chris Simpson and team will react according to seasonal availability and modify to your dietary needs except for any vegan option. Produce from the Netherwood Estate underpins and inspires so much here. In the short time since opening, the restaurant and estate have developed an admirably responsive and responsible community.
Service here is exemplary. Front of house manager Jim Conway has an impressive CV in hospitality but his gentle, assured talents were equalled in other ways by his team. All of them suffer from an embarrassment of riches in the area of conventional good looks but they also have a lovely surfeit of those much more important qualities which complete any restaurant experience. A total understanding of what they bring from the kitchen means that questions about detail of the dishes are answered with immediate ease. Their skill to react with intelligence and affability to a silly bugger like me was particularly commendable.
SCALLOP, Celeriac, Chicory Jam, Fennel, Onion, Chilli
Mrs Cheoff didn’t flinch at all when her chosen starter arrived. ‘Raw’ scallops would have presented a challenge in years gone by but here she was in the hands of a kitchen whose confidence is apparent in each dish. I don’t know if there was any curing of the main ingredient but it retained wonderful freshness. Level of chilli heat was perfect and the different textures ensured interest to the last bite.
MUSHROOM, Truffle, Hazelnut, Artichoke, Sourdough
My starter was designed and delivered with so much care that I spent a few moments digesting with just my eyes. Clever, spot-on treatment of ingredients which ask to be put together. Softness, crunch, mushrooms (beech and enoki? - no, I didn’t ask enough questions), a touch of acidity and the smile-inducing presence of indulgent truffle. When all those main elements were gone, like the finish of a good wine, I was left with the lovely flavour and mouthfeel of a very classy rapeseed oil used in the dressing.
SOURDOUGH - a fork dealt with the more fluid elements of my mushroom starter but this ‘Melba Toast’ with knobs on was still a very welcome addition
Our main course varied from the website’s ‘Sample Menu’ with damsons replacing cherries. “Yay” for seasonal ingredients! The duck meat was meltingly right and the skin painstakingly scored and rendered crisp. Even more crunch came from the brick pastry casing folded around the leg meat. Enough fat to create the same texture as crispy chicken - erm, duck - skin. More prosaic, soft cabbage gave its familiar reassurance. Then beetroot and damson offered fruit, earthiness and a dulled acidity. The squeak of spring onions and their liquid release completed a mini triumph which sauntered between fading summer and the insistence of autumn harvest.
DUCK, Damson, Beetroot, Cabbage Fish will have to wait until next time!
John Duval Wines ‘Plexus’ Marsanne Roussanne Viognier 2018
We could have relied on a recommendation from our sommelier but Mrs C had already identified a style we like on the list. The same blend of grapes as many more familiar (to us, at least) Southern Rhône whites but made on the other side of the world in Australia. And made by a winemaker with a rather special pedigree. We really enjoyed this complex but surprisingly fresh wine. It couldn’t distract us completely from the quality of food but it did add another welcome element to our ‘Pensons’ experience.
Do allow yourself to be at least a little distracted by the design and ambience of the restaurant building itself. It is curated in part from local archaeological evidence and examples of equally ancient crafts maintained and produced by modern-day artists.
BLACKBERRIES, Pear, Lemon, Almond, Cider
BLACKBERRIES, Pear, Lemon, Almond, Cider (dressed with the cider granita)
Time for the last act. We both made the same choice of dessert rather than cheese. Nothing to regret about that decision. Cool temperatures here but the lack of physical warmth was replaced by a little virtual hug from each ingredient. Blackberries were cleverly poached to bring out more flavour but with the care to leave them as firm as freshly picked. Fluid gels and jellies vibed on the hedgerow fruit and crunch came from both the almond biscuit and a mildly resistant pear. Initially hidden lemon mousse was fluffy and just as it should be - lemony. The cider granita melted into another reminder of the bounty from the estate.
Bells and whistles come as standard here. You’ll certainly find adventure and creativity. But come to Pensons for what really matters - craftsmanship cooking of the highest order delivering food which is achingly honest and utterly delicious.
The first three pictures below will link to Pensons Instagram account where you’ll find plentiful photographs by David Loftus as well as the chance to explore some of the team who are ‘tagged’ in posts. Be prepared to survive on just my final butter photo if I have crossed any copyright boundaries!
Signature Bread - Not baked
Signature Bread - Baked
Signature Bread - with Yeast Butter
Our Yeast Butter - after we had begun to ‘investigate’
Can’t end this without giving the bread its must mention. The eggshell crust is close to puffball Turkish lavaş but instead of a hollow centre there is a light crumb of white bread. You’ll find greater variety in some restaurant’s bread baskets but here is a sensible approach to make something well and then to repeat doing it so well that it becomes a familiar and reliable companion to your meal.
We furrowed our brows at the silly 12.5% discretionary service charge and added a little more to reflect our gratitude for a great meal. I can’t imagine any guest being unwilling to pay generously for every minute and every mouthful of the wonderful experience which we enjoyed.
Thank you to all the fabulous Pensons team.
You managed to read as far as this? I’m guessing you took a short break to look up dates for your own meal. If not, here is the link you need to make a booking!