The Terrace, Yarmouth, Isle of Wight
Lunch for 2, Wednesday 2 October 2023
Our first visit to the Isle of Wight. Off the Red Funnel Ferry ramp at East Cowes, we headed in the opposite direction to our chosen accommodation in Shanklin and went west to Yarmouth for this pre-booked lunch.
Enough time for a wander through the town and a few minutes in ‘The Book Room’ where this volume caught my eye in the window. Hah. ‘The Windmills of Surrey and Inner London’? What a find! Just a photo for you - and me - no purchase. But it was a delightful nostalgic nudge which reminded me of what the author, Ken Farries, was preparing for publication alongside teaching me geography at school in the mid 1960s.
If you are a keener molinologist than me it’s still available at this Isle of Wight bookshop or places like Abe Books for around £40.00 (we did visit the National Trust Bembridge Mill later in the week)
Right. Food…
Two starters, two mains and a dessert chosen by both of us.
The menu here is cleverly aimed at pleasing a variety of tastes by targeting as much developed flavour as possible.
Fresh and ‘meaty’ tomatoes and meaty meat starters were our chosen introduction. We fell in with the idea that coastal waters would provide good produce to inspire enthusiastic cooking. Which is exactly what we enjoyed for the main event.
Our starters showed two different approaches when dealing with a chosen central ingredient. Fresh tomatoes were left to stand up for themselves with quiet support from a dressing and the texture of crunchy bread. A beef cheek is delightful but shouts a little louder for supportive interest from known-to-go-well-with partners. These were certainly chosen well and well-made, and simply added to the delight.
From the kitchen, Connor and Adam carried on their business by sending out a couple of well-conceived and excellently cooked fishy main courses. Great flavours from fruity and acidic tomatoes, sharper capers and iron-tangy kale. Earthy potatoes and the slick of oil and butter. Strong flavours which were judged very nicely and in no way detracted from the fish.
Desserts are not the sort which would challenge a pastry section. A straightforward quintet of crowd pleasers saw us both going for the same layered glass of cool comfort. Perhaps still too cold from its stay in the fridge and the crumb on the way to soggy rather than crunchy. But not an unpleasant end to our meal with all the right flavours on parade.
Our rosé wine choice was not available so Tom Butler immediately offered us a more expensive Provençal expression at the same price. He is obviously well-seasoned front of house but was very ably supported by Weronika who added her own polish to the occasion metaphorically, and literally with a capital ‘P’. We all agreed that her home country’s Iga Świątek is the most impressive player in the WTA at present.
The Terrace enjoys a truly fine setting. The harbour and ferry terminal provide regular bouts of activity. Curry nights, sheltered dining pods and a cheeky treasure hunt are just a few of the extra ways they might pique your interest.
This was just right for us as a lunchtime venue. No guarantee of the fine late autumn weather we enjoyed but good food and relaxed surroundings appear to be standard. For more developed dining you are advised to try their sister property, The Terrace Rooms, Ventnor. Check out the great selection of wines, accommodation and enticing meals offered on limited days here.
Ah, yes.
Gentlemen - some few say I fit that description - who visit the Yarmouth Terrace toilets will be greeted with an exclamation in Roy Lichtenstein style.
All I can say is that - in my case, at least - size really isn’t important…