Le Champignon Sauvage - Dining With Two Stars

Dinner for 2, October 26 2023

Eating at one of the world’s best restaurants on the day of my birthday is quite the privilege. Being a paying guest of two of hospitality’s greatest and confoundingly humble people is close enough to the stuff of which dreams are made. And sharing the experience once more with my partner of over fifty years was simply the very sweet and deep icing on an already rich and tasty confection.

At Mrs G’s suggestion we found ourselves, not for the first time, at Le Champignon Sauvage spending utterly delicious time in the care of David and Helen Everitt-Matthias.

We started in the bar area with the now rather iconic parmesan custards with chorizo crumbs and a more recent mini tartlet of pouting with smoked mayonnaise and pickled pear.

The chorizo crumb on those silky, cheesy bites was perhaps not quite as fine and dust-like as on previous visits and…
”Cheoff?”
”Erm, yes…”
”You have already decided to end this review by strongly suggesting that the entire meal was a stunning delivery of flawless dishes. You are being an arse here. Shut it.”
”Erm, yes. OK.”

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.
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Food pictures will click open in a lightbox. Oh dear. I was obviously still trembling with anticipation for that shot of our ‘appetiser’. Subsequent photos are decent enough but can’t possibly convey the almost overwhelming quality of flavour, texture and finish which kept arriving at our table.
Book, travel, sit down, and see and taste for yourself.

As ever, any mistakes in descriptions are all mine - I’ve tried not to make too many.

Appetiser and bread

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Pumpkin cream, smoked almond foam, sage and onion breadcrumbs

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Bacon and shallot brioche

Our appetiser was two thirds soft and fluffy. The brasher breadcrumb topping gave a herby crunch and completed a trio of elements which are so well suited. Lightness of touch with depth of flavour.
We have learned from experience that the fabulous contents of the breadbasket might challenge the capacity of our own ‘breadbaskets’. You will always be offered the chance of more through the meal. We stuck with one glorious bacon and shallot brioche each.

We had been greeted by Alice at the door. Her obvious innate charms and talents have surely been tailored and augmented by Helen’s influence and she joins a distinguished list of front of house who have added enjoyment to our experiences over the years here. Through no fault of her own, Alice also halved - at the very least - the average age of our company!
Apart from the constant delicious distractions arriving from the kitchen, Helen remains a particular focus of each visit. It would be facile to simply describe her as another delicious distraction. She will go through the formalities of presentation and explanation of dishes but whenever time allows through the evening Helen becomes your trusted friend and confidante. And a partner in mischievous, veering towards pleasingly wicked humour. Helen is a complex and intoxicating mix who makes many other hosts appear awkward by comparison.

Helen arrived with my scallop starter and a message from David in the kitchen. “If you are taking photographs, this dish looks ‘prettier’ before saucing.”
Which is why you have two pictures to enjoy.
I remain mildly conflicted over the rights and wrongs of snapping away instead of tucking in but my photographic records always inform my cooking at home even if they are not published here or anywhere else.
And friends are ever ready to tease me on this subject as evidenced by one birthday card opened that morning before we had set off for Cheltenham.

Starters and wine

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Scallops, oyster velouté, Jerusalem artichoke, sunflower seed emulsion - before velouté

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Scallops, oyster velouté, Jerusalem artichoke, sunflower seed emulsion - complete with velouté

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Cured and seared Cornish red mullet, tartare, wasabi mayonnaise, dashi gel

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Jean Durup, L'Eglantiere Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, 2021

Fine margins. But almost certainly the best scallop dish I’ve had. The sear on flesh was so perfectly judged. I’m assuming this was achieved in a pan only but the result had all the light smoky zing of an outdoor cook over summer flames. Nutty J chokes were matched by peanut buttery sunflower seeds and my first taste of rock samphire was delightful. Definite crunch but less salt and more herby greenness than expected. What a creation. Hair spray never had this much harmony!

Mrs G continues to adventure further with her menu choices. The red mullet dish would have once challenged her more but something conceived with such understanding is likely to turn the head of any but the most pernickety of diners. My wife was trapped into murmuring ‘This is delicious’ on repeat.

Chablis premier cru was also on repeat - a different domaine and vintage - but the choice we had made on our first visit in 2010. We drank with reasonable restraint adding only a pudding wine to desserts.

Meaty mains.
Including the partridge which had tempted us but neither had ordered. It arrived before our own choices as chef’s treat.

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Grey-legged partridge, morteau sausage, turnip and verjus purée

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Creedy Carver duckbreast and duck heart, pickled blueberries, Earl Grey

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Cotswold lamb, goat’s curd, wild garlic salsa verde, black garlic

There are nods to graphic novels in David and Helen’s purchased artwork hung on the restaurant walls. Flavours are strongly defined across the menu but there are definite echoes of the comic book genre’s ‘Bam’, ‘Pow’ and ‘Whump’ in all of these punchy main dishes. Mastery of cooking alongside such top quality produce hits hard and true - wonderfully so.

New-born baby onions, meat juices and the influence of Earl Grey all calmed down the potential attack from blueberries and made the sauce for my duck a wondrous thing.

Pre-dessert and desserts

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Tonka bean, lime and blood orange granita, blood orange foam

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Lime crémeux, coconut sorbet, mint, brown sugar purée

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Chicory cheesecake, mocha sorbet, coffee tuile

A glance at our pre-dessert reveals how a great chef exerts control. In this case, control over the consistency of elements. The tonka bean cream is not going anywhere but neither are the other two layers as they sit firmly but floatingly above. All in perfect order until an eager invasive spoon messes things up. Mrs G had already dubbed her lamb the best she has eaten and she remained entranced by the simplicity and - let’s use the right word - sexiness of this precursor to more complicated sweet things.

I’ll dispense with too many more expansive descriptions and try to let the images entertain you. If you think those desserts look enticing you’d be right. So much going on to see and enjoy. Including the inspiration to sprinkle a little ground coffee in my own crumb bases at home. Idea nicked.

Oh. Please cast your eyes into the background of my cheesecake pic. Duck fat fudge. Nnnngg… dribble.

Menu

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With just one other pair of guests left in the room, Helen invited us to join David. With stoves all cleaned down we had the privilege of a relaxed chat. No huge topics of discussion considering bigger world events. Instead, a general mulling over of the rewards and struggles of hospitality. With one huge, positive revelation. David has no plans to take any sort of back seat and Helen will continue to support and complement his efforts. Hoo-bloomin-ray!

We were at the end of close on four hours of an experience which - alongside times with loved family and dear friends - must count as one of the richest in our lives.

Helen had seduced us in many and various ways at table and David had steadfastly ensured that not a single mistake left the kitchen.

A stream of prizes and accolades have been awarded, even if not sought, throughout this restaurant’s history. After thirty-six years - and counting - whatever the pronouncements of certain sad, tired (and tyred obviously!) inspectors, two stars continue to shine very brightly in Cheltenham.

The Glorious Fifteenth

The 15th of August, commonly celebrated as the Glorious Fifteenth, marks the start of another year in the history of one of the world’s finest restaurants.

I wrote here about this iconic date in 2017 when David and Helen Everitt-Matthias marked thirty years since they had opened. So today sees them complete thirty-three years of presenting incomparable cooking and hospitality.*

* If you challenge my assessment I will be available on Hampstead Heath duelling ground accompanied by my second on the morning following your contemptible offence.

This is a personal statement which repeats feelings I’ve held for a long time. But I do know that its sentiments are shared by a vast number of hospitality professionals, present and past, who are much more qualified and equipped to comment on such things than an enthusiastic amateur like me.

David and Helen’s endeavour and passion have created a wonderful experience which continues to offer so many things to so many people. As a paying guest I have enjoyed a small part of what they do. The excitement before a visit and the memory of it leave strong and deep impressions.

I imagine David has papers - jottings, notes and sketches - which record his cooking explorations. If so, they will be the culinary equivalent of Leonardo da Vinci’s notebooks. We certainly have his published cookbooks to give us generous insight and encouragement on which to model success in our own kitchens.

‘Front of House Perfection’ authored by Helen? It’s a nice idea. But I doubt written instructions could ever substitute for being in close contact with the rare talents and human warmth which Helen models.

There is a point where finances - or the lack of them - restrict the chances to enjoy more developed restaurant experiences. Most cannot visit such places regularly. Including us. But our privilege is to be able to book occasionally. And on those occasional visits we benefit from the history which David and Helen have written for themselves and their guests. Which, in turn, makes those visits incredibly rich and satisfying. It is worth mentioning that anyone planning a ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ treat at Le Champignon Sauvage will need to save for a comparatively short time due to very generous pricing.

Covid-19 concerns continue to cast their shadow. But how heartening it was to hear in June that this particular landmark destination survives in Cheltenham. Anyone who enjoys being looked after superbly well while eating food cooked by a world-class chef must be grateful. Something so consistently close to perfection is a rare thing.
Let’s not just offer them our huge congratulations. Much of David and Helen’s motivation is deep and personal but ultimately they cook for us. A visit is really the best way to say thank you for their grand achievement. Our booking - and our thanks - are never too far away.

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Le Champignon Sauvage - Just A Taste

Le Champignon Sauvage Thursday 31 October 2019
Dinner for 3, Table 14

This was the fifth visit for Mrs Cheoff and me. Mum asked to see us around my birthday. For a long while we have wanted to show her the delights on offer at Le Champignon Sauvage. We travelled south to where she still lives in a land of charity shops in Surrey (my toddler and teenage haunts have changed!). Off west to Cheltenham with her for twenty-four hours. By the time we arrived she had offered to pay for the meal. I remain a spoiled child.

A click on this image takes you straight to details for booking.

It would be daftly unnecessary for me to recommend this restaurant to you when respected giants of food criticism have already done so with such gusto and insistence. The complexity of the food and the richness of the personal attentions are, well - complex and rich. So I can’t provide the impossibly full version of events. This will be ‘Just A Taste’ of our delicious experience. But these scattered observations and thoughts are intended to give you a strong flavour of the closest thing to perfection that any restaurant team have offered me.

front of house*

*subheadings follow the convention of Le Champignon Sauvage recipe book titles - all lower case!

Helen Everitt-Matthias greeted us as we entered the restaurant. We have always been impressed - no, seduced - by the wonderful ease with which she orchestrates events on one side of the kitchen traffic door. Her presence at every service here for over thirty-two years is matched by husband David at the stoves on the other side of that door. Her team has always been an integral part of visits. The latest two to stay and benefit from her impeccable training were Belen and Connie. With about two years and two months of experience respectively both were steeped in the excellence which Helen examples. They visited our table with an easy mix of professionalism and informal interaction. By the end of the evening it seemed we were saying goodbye to the equivalent of two new ‘old’ friends.

(I’m now fairly consistent in self-imposing a no camera rule when eating out. Professional studios do a much better job and I suffer less distraction from the most important thing - enjoying the company, the food and the hospitality. A quick written note between courses is as much as I’ll allow. I’ll then record things in my own way once home. Any sketches which follow are the medium through which I relive and enjoy again some of the elements of our meal. Any inaccuracies are entirely down to me.)

canapés

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malt cracker with pouting, smoked mayonnaise and pickled pear

goat’s cheese and onion marmalade cornet - toasted rice

parmesan custard rolled in chorizo powder

The parmesan custard was softer and silkier than ever. The first sketch shows it in the ever-so slightly firmer shape which has been presented to us on previous visits.

Those who do use their cameras at the table supply further evidence and confirmation of the quality of dishes. You will find pictures of the canapés and much more here.

Oh, yes - that mayonnaise really did have a vibrancy suggesting that chef had been foraging in the local art supply shop for cadmium yellow!

amuse bouche

There are labels (colour-coded - nice!) to explain what is going on here. Imagine a clever, lighter version of beef and mushroom stew. And then offer up a small prayer that this is being served if/when you visit.

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chef’s surprise

We had ordered two meat mains. After our starter my double-take and disbelief at the sight of fish cutlery being erroneously laid down at all three covers was short-lived. Helen explained that David wished to offer us an extra course. A perfect cushion of skate topping a bed of mushroom duxelles and chestnuts. Pulled back small enough, bearing in mind the following main course, but totally unrestrained in flavour.
A truly unexpected treat.

wine

Apologies for the unavailability of a half bottle of Champagne were quickly retracted as it was found to be present after all. Just right for three persons plus those canapés.

With the food we drank a six year-old Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc. It was glorious - in colour, aroma, flavour and finish. Mum has twenty-five years more experience of life than me but I still manage to introduce her to wines which induce glazed expressions and shivers of appreciation.

We made successful plans to track down a couple of early vintages and enjoyed a 2010 at home for Christmas.

chef’s surprise - another!

After ordering our dessert Helen asked if I would like to meet David in the kitchen. I went with a crazy mixture of the apprehension which comes from being summoned to the headteacher’s study and joy at the thought of spending a few moments in close contact with an inspiring personal hero. Any intimate revelations shall remain intimate and unrevealed. Besides they were put into firm second place by the lovely chance to see a chef and his team at close quarters producing wonderful things in perfect harmony.
Let’s repeat those words.
A truly unexpected treat.

pre-dessert

A delightful escape from the confusing world of high street coffee where - oh dear - you are asked if you want milk with your ‘Americano’. Camp Coffee chicory might well have been in that granita but Chef twisted things further via his foraging credentials and gave us dandelion root for gentle bitterness. The whole thing was like a cold, mad melange of affogato and cortado. So well judged as to make you wistful for more but light enough to leave room for our choice of main dessert.

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dessert

As soon as I saw it on the menu, my dessert choice became obvious. ‘mango, thai spiced cream, thai green curry sorbet’ is an Everitt-Matthias signature dish. There is no published recipe for it that I can find. Our son, James, shared a tiny taste of the sorbet at one previous meal and it was time for me to confirm what all the fuss was about. All I will say is that I cannot understand how James agreed to share even a morsel of this insane loveliness!

That’s the extent of the ‘tasting menu’ which I’m presenting to you. Starters, main courses, desserts and petits fours are all very fondly remembered but further descriptions are discarded for this reflection (except for those Thai curry accents in my pud, of course!). So you don’t have my reactions to the complete series of experiences at this one wonderful meal. I could always try to do that but I’ll leave you with a link to follow which explains in good measure why, although tempting, that is probably not the best idea.

ichi-go ichi-e

Enjoy your own meal with David, Helen and team whether you are returning or eating there for the first time. I freely admit that tasting for yourself really does beat reading this.

Le Champignon Sauvage - Thirty Magnificent Years

August 15 2017

I have known for a long time that a remarkable anniversary would take place this year. I meant to find out much earlier exactly what the date of that anniversary might be. To my shame, social media finally let me know.

At 6:45 pm tonight I telephoned ‘Le Champignon Sauvage’ to ask if today was the day. David Everitt-Matthias answered and confirmed that it was. I uttered congratulations that were garbled, perhaps even unconvincing, and certainly nowhere near as huge and heartfelt as I had intended.

So I resort to this place where I bring thoughts and occasionally assemble almost the right words to express them.

Please look yourself for links to stories, achievements, awards and recipes which have been generated by David and Helen and their teams. You will also find reference to a staggering brigade of talented chefs who have benefited from training and influence in that Cheltenham kitchen.

You can find a good account here of the man and woman responsible for the restaurant which Cheltenham and the rest of the world are so fortunate to have.

This extract confirms one more remarkable, recurring event in the thirty year existence of that truly wonderful place:

“Married two years earlier, after meeting at the Four Seasons where Helen worked front of house, the couple moved to Cheltenham Spa in the Cotswolds to open their dream restaurant in 1987. David Everitt-Matthias has not missed a service since.”

Thousands of services, of course. So far I have been utterly privileged to be a customer at table for three* of those services. Our son James, already a keen and adventurous cook at a much earlier age than me, alerted me to David’s cookbooks and we both started to enjoy working at the recipes.

In 2010, a year after publication of ‘essence’, Jan and I booked to eat for the first time. After a meal every bit as wonderful as hoped for we could only imagine that an overheard whisper might explain the candle which was lit on a petit four. Helen apologised for what we had completely failed to notice as her ‘lack of attention’. She gave us our bill and explained that she did not dare spend too long at our table for fear of giving the game away. James had telephoned and pre-paid our bill as a joint birthday present. His writing looks a lot like Helen's, don't you think?

Exactly a year and one week later we were back. James was with us to celebrate his thirtieth… which means that I was now celebrating my sixtieth! Jonathan joined us to complete the duo of sons who have given us even more pleasure than a visit to @Lechampsauvage. The meal was a riot of excellence and enjoyment but my abiding memory must be the look of wonder, recognition and delight on James’ face over the starter which Helen presented and described to him.

Those two autumn visits were followed five years after by a late July booking with sons and their partners.

We all relished the complexity, creativity and demands of a meal cooked by David and his brigade. I had the best rabbit starter which exists inside the Orion Arm of the Milky Way and saw page 139 of ‘beyond essence’ come to life as my dessert. The huge impact of our first visit has grown with each subsequent meal.

A whirl of techniques, combinations and visual aesthetics might confuse but Helen and team are on hand to help with choices and answer all questions. With so much on offer in each course it is fairly easy to lose track of exactly what you have experienced. That is one reason why I have not yet attempted to properly describe full details of our meals on these pages. But there is one inescapably clear thing when you eat David’s food. Be it a fine cut or a humble, foraged plant, you will experience the fullest and most faithful flavours in each ingredient and in every mouthful. We all assume that the results of such accomplishment come at a price. And yet, Le Champignon Sauvage still offers stupidly good value for money whichever menu you choose.

Don’t take my word (or Jay Rayner’s!) for it. Go and see and taste for yourself. I won’t be too jealous if you do... we are booked in again this October!

Last week I foraged for bullace and stripped half a kilo of lemon verbena leaves to make a sorbet and a jelly, relying for both on David’s recipes. So, I was still busy missing the chance to make a fuss of the very person whose goodness I continue to grab.

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Too much side-tracking from me, as usual. Let's get to the important part.

I am very much aware that hundreds of people have contributed to the success of this Cheltenham restaurant over its history. But, for the most part, this is my personal thanks to David for what he has brought into my life. I know how gentle and humble he is. The testament of chefs who have worked with him confirm that. He has proved immensely generous to me in direct and indirect ways. I have been able to build up reference points to make a better balanced judgement of his achievements (and there are others who have comparable, if different culinary skills). But I am already convinced that none of them will match him for the glorious excitement which I find in eating his food and in trying to cook it. 

Of course, there is one other person who needs further inclusion. Helen, so smart mentally and in appearance, is an integral part of the restaurant experience. Granted, she is a seasoned professional but how easily she glides from the assurance which that gives into other modes. These include the ability to identify opportunities for mischievous humour and the subtle raising of an eyebrow, steering you towards a much more interesting and rewarding choice from the wine list. I can quite understand guests who wish for those quieter services when they might enjoy even more of Helen’s attentions.

Le Champignon Sauvage would undoubtedly have been a great thing if it had simply been David's work but sharing his dream with Helen has made the whole thing become a beautiful affair.

I salute both Helen and David for the thirty year milestone which they have passed and repeat my thanks and congratulations to them for creating something so very, very special.

And, yes, I am posting this a day in arrears after editing it to my liking. Late to the pass. Not exactly up to David's standards but "Better late than never"... as he would never say!

* edit: FOUR times! Including divine pig’s trotter for me in October 2017.

David Everitt-Matthias - A Trio of Essentials

How I wish I could say 'A Quintet of Essentials'. 'An Octet' would be even better. But I'm being greedy. The three cookbooks which I talk about here are enough to satisfy the keenest of those whose favourite room in the house is the kitchen... until another is published, of course! 

I have referenced one of David Everitt-Matthias' recipes before but I do feel rather daft for not devoting more writing time to my favourite chef.  I haven't quite worked out the reasons for this. Just wobbling around with fear of failing to do justice to a hero and almost tongue-tied by the awe in which I hold him, I guess. Of course, I must include David’s wife, Helen, in any discussion of the twenty-nine year old restaurant perfection that is Le Champignon Sauvage. That perfection is built on the combination, development and application of their immense talents and skills, applied with huge determination. One couple have created an experience which ranks alongside the most enjoyable moments in my life outside of those with my family and friends.

I should focus on those cookbooks, shouldn't I? As a keen cook, the three published volumes in my introductory picture are the most treasured purchases that I have made to feed my enthusiasm. And feed it they have. I have too many books containing lovely recipes which leave me cold as I read. The writer gives nothing more than bald instruction and a shrug of 'Get on with it'. David's books have an abundance of those wonderful dishes you would expect from a double-starred Michelin chef but on every page his presence is felt. Exciting, at first glance, complicated recipes are presented with a quiet and insistent assurance that they can be produced by you while a great teacher advises, cajoles and encourages over your shoulder. 

You are given clear and practical ways to use the books. Store-cupboard and foundation items to make in advance mean that you can have great treats to enjoy and use in your cooking through the year. Recipes are challenging; challenges of technique and of flavour profiles and combinations. Any reservations are gently smoothed over as David weaves in details of wild, foraged items, the merits of unfamiliar ingredients, tempts you with unexpected creations and gradually seduces you into the certainty that this is achievable at home.

Every recipe has elements which you are invited to include, discard or save for consideration another time. Items which were 'exotic' a few decades ago are so much easier to source now but there are plentiful ideas for substituting any ingredients still difficult to find or if a particular flavour profile is off-putting. Alternatives which still work well are frequently suggested.

Desserts obviously dominate the middle volume but there are enough in the other two to satisfy the sweet tooth... and anyone who is looking to include vegetables right up to the end of a meal!

Before getting to the glossary and acknowledgements, each book includes a few delightful recipes for petits fours. Jellies, fudges, pastries and tracklement treasures simply confirm the touch and span of a master of his art.

Crispy pig's ears with a lovely acidic tartare sauce was the first recipe I tackled. The ears stay a matter for more understanding and sympathetic treatment but the sauce is a regular treat with other meals.

Mini cinnamon-spiced doughnuts followed. White chocolate and salted lemon fudge (using salted lemons from the 'foundations' section) demands to be made regularly. Some years back we had a Boxing Day to remember with more pleasure than usual after indulging in 'semifreddo of macadamia nuts with passion fruit and star anise sorbet'. Versions of glazed pork belly, pressed apples, acorn panna cotta and ras el hanout caramel have all been enjoyed in the making and in the tasting.

With the appearance of 'beyond essence' David explores further afield to the Middle East and beyond for wonderful additions to recipes already full of complex delight. I won't expand on the repertoire from which I frequently access recipes and ideas. I leave you to discover the rest for yourself. You will have rich pickings.

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dark chocolate and star anise truffle cake

My recommendation here will be old news to many home cooks but for others this is an acclaimed chef who you might not have heard of. His culinary stature is huge and accolades are regular but his media presence is quiet and small. That someone so accomplished exists with so little celebrity is an indication of great modesty. David does not court attention... but his work demands it. The generosity you will discover in these books is in his sharing of a lifetime's experience and experimentation. 

Another chef recently posted his own dessert recipe on social media. This was met with many a 'Yum' and 'Delish'. But most added, "Looks great but I couldn't possibly do this at home... please come round and cook this for me!" I have a sneaky feeling that if David could spare the time he would respond to such a request and make his way to your kitchen. Once there, he would refuse to cook. Instead, he would gradually create the confidence you need to produce the whole thing yourself. You would be getting the same invaluable input which has nurtured so many young chefs in his professional kitchen at Cheltenham. When one of his 'graduates' tweeted "He (David) never once raised his voice" I was not in the least surprised. 

'Stages' are available at the restaurant. Failing that opportunity, you still have the 'essence' of David Everitt-Matthias. His recipes give you access to a wealth of riches which are available to grasp and enjoy. If you don't have his books you really should.

Finally, a little pondering which is brought on by my love of calligraphy, printing and books.

After owning 'essence' for a few months I noticed this information following the title page:  

“A note about the text
This book is set in Sabon MT.
Sabon was designed by Jan
Tschichold in 1964. The roman
design is based on type by Claude
Garamond, whereas the italic
design is based on types by Robert
Granjon.”

David and Helen Everitt-Matthias love France. David immediately acknowledges the use of classic techniques which were developed in French cuisine. He has relied on them with great respect as a foundation for his cooking.. What he has subsequently brought to his kitchen seems to have close parallels  to the designs of Tschichold and other typographers for whom Garamond and Granjon were shining French lights.

I might be stretching a point but, for me, it is wholly appropriate that the text of my favourite cookbooks is designed with the same approach as David's...  he and Tschichold stand on the shoulders of giants and, adding persistent excellence and genius, search for and create stunning new expressions of their chosen craft.

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